Homes, offices, units
Safe opening in Crevillente, and safes fixed where they belong
A safe whose keypad stays dark, a code nobody remembers, a safe that came with an inherited house. Opened with as little damage as the safe allows; and new safes fixed down where they will stay.
Open 24 hours · 7 days
- Battery and override first
- Ownership checked
- Price agreed before work starts
Try this first: new batteries, and a look for a small keyhole hidden behind the maker’s badge or under the keypad. Plenty of safes that seem broken are only flat.
Opening
Getting into a safe that refuses
- Power and override. External battery contacts, override keys and master codes, where the safe has them.
- Manipulation of mechanical and some electronic locks, without opening up the body.
- Drilling at a single point, only when nothing else works and you agree. A new lock goes on and the safe is usable again.
You are asked to show the safe is yours to open: the deeds, the declaration of heirs, a lease that includes it, or the owner on the phone.
Local knowledge
Fixing a safe in a cave, a farmhouse or a unit
A safe is only as secure as what it is bolted to, and the houses of Crevillente are not all built alike.
Cave houses
In the Coves, the back rooms are dug into the hillside rather than built. Before anything is drilled into an excavated wall, what it is made of has to be looked at; a floor fixing is often the better choice. Fixing a safe into a cave wall goes through it, and the cave house page covers the doors.
Houses in the settlements
In older houses such as El Realengo’s 1950s settler houses, the floor and walls are checked first, so the fixings suit what is really under the tiles.
Offices and units
On the estates, a safe usually goes into a concrete floor, and estates, settlements and town are all within the area we reach. For the doors and shutters of the same premises, see locks for shops, offices and units; after a forced entry, the break-in page.
In order
Fitting a new safe
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Choose the spot
Solid underneath, out of plain sight, reachable for daily use.
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Check what it sits on
Concrete, brick, or an excavated wall, each with its own fixing.
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Fix it down
Anchored from inside the safe, so the fixings cannot be reached with the door shut.
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Set your code
You set it yourself and try it with the door open before closing it.
Not sure what you have? Send a photo of the front and the maker’s label through the contact page.
Questions
When the safe stays shut
The keypad lights up but the safe will not accept the code. Is it broken?
Not necessarily. Weak batteries can light a keypad and still not drive the bolt. New batteries are the first thing to try; if that changes nothing, a photo of the front and the make tells us how to go on.
We inherited a house with a safe in it and nobody knows the code.
Have the papers that show the house is yours, or the declaration of heirs, and a photo of the safe. It is opened and set up with a code of your own.
Can a safe be opened without ruining it?
Often, through an override key, a master code or manipulation of the lock. When the only way is to drill, it is done at one point, and the safe gets a new lock and can be used again.
Where in the house should a new safe go?
Where it can be fixed to something solid and is not the first place anyone would look. Fixed to a concrete floor is usually best; a light safe that is not fixed down can simply be carried away.
Next, often
Often arranged along with a safe
Guides that send readers here
Photograph the safe and send it
The front, the keypad or dial, and the maker’s name tell us how it is likely to open. Or ring.